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Cheat your way to gorgeous gravy! Get it right and gravy can be the tastiest part of the whole feast. But it’s also the trickiest. Starting when you drag yourself out of bed to turn on the oven, Christmas dinner is a marathon for the cook. And just when — several hours later — you think you’re nearly there, there’s still the gravy to do. Get it right and this can be the tastiest part of the whole feast.
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But it’s also the trickiest, and if you get it wrong — too watery, too thick, or, worst of all, lumpy — it can ruin the whole meal. Last year’s efforts nearly reduced me to tears when my gravy almost solidified. So this year I’m determined to do it right. Or to cheat convincingly.
I’ve always been a little snobby about shop- bought gravy, and could never bring myself to do granules, but this year there are a number of quite inviting- looking ones. I tried eight ready- made gravies from the High Street, from Asda’s . So which gravy will float your boat this Christmas? BLAND AND BORINGAldi Specially Selected Rich and Delicious Poultry Gravy, 5. It looked nice — a deep brown colour with green flecks of herbs — but there the attraction ends.
It has a shop- made tang, after which the flavour is barely discernible. You’d do better with nasty instant granules. PALE BUT INTERESTINGMorrisons Rich Turkey Gravy, 5. Strong chicken taste with a real depth of flavour. The aftertaste was a little salty, but this was by far the best of the cheaper options. TOP QUALITYWaitrose Heston Caramelised Onion, Bacon and Mustard Gravy, 2. A rich, distinct flavour and it was absolutely delicious — more like something you’d have in a smart restaurant than at someone’s house.
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This was my favourite by far. Starting when you drag yourself out of bed to turn on the oven, Christmas dinner is a marathon for the cook. NASTY AFTERTASTEAsda Chicken Gravy, 5.
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A couple of kefir leavened #sourdough loaves. A while since I made them last but still a lovely dough to handle
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Initially, you can’t taste very much, but it has a nasty sharp aftertaste which lingers on the palate. Definitely one to leave on the shelf. HOMEMADE TASTESainsbury’s Taste the Difference Fresh Chicken Gravy 4. Lovely glossy mid- brown colour with no .
It doesn’t quite taste homemade, but comes pretty close. FAKE AND FOULLidl Deluxe British Turkey Gravy with Thyme, Sage and White Wine, 5. The taste, however, is just what gravy purists have nightmares about. Fake- tasting and utterly revolting. PLEASINGLY POSHMarks & Spencer Posh Poultry Gravy, 5. Looking at the label, I can see why — not only is it made with chicken stock but there’s turkey and duck stocks in it too. But I can only describe the smell as .
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This one really is best avoided. And if you really insist on making your own. Jamie Oliver’s Get Ahead Gravy. This gravy has a reputation for being delicious, but there’s no denying that, in Jamie’s words, it’s . But if you really want to dazzle your guests tomorrow, you could make it today, keep it in the fridge overnight, and then finish it off tomorrow.
The recipe calls for eight chicken wings, two onions, two carrots, two celery sticks, all roughly chopped, five sage leaves, five bay leaves, four sprigs of fresh rosemary, two star anise, and two rashers of smoked streaky bacon. Phew. First I put the oven to 2.
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Next came the horrible bit: Jamie says you must . Then I tore it open and scattered the wings over the veg and bacon before drizzling with olive oil, adding salt and pepper, and tossing together. The tray went into the oven for an hour, which made the house smell divine. Then the hard work began.
I had to put the tray onto the hob over a low heat, and mash everything with a potato masher. It was quite tricky — mashing the dry meat and veg (and bones!) while making sure it didn’t stick to the bottom. Gradually I mixed in four tablespoons of plain flour, then two litres of hot water, before turning up the heat, bringing to the boil for ten minutes, and simmering for another 2. It kept sticking to the bottom of the pan, so I had to hover there for ages, stirring and scraping, stirring and scraping. It smelt delicious, though.
Then I had to push the mixture through a sieve into a large bowl. Jamie’s instructions were to . The gravy was a really attractive deep brown colour, with a strong chicken smell — and if I’d been making it ahead to freeze, I’d have frozen it at this stage. Instead I proceeded to the next step, which you should do on Christmas Day once your turkey is roasted, and you’ve removed it from the pan for resting. I spooned off the fat from the turkey juices, then poured my pre- made gravy into the pan to mingle with the turkey juices. I then stirred and scraped over the hob, added two heaped dessertspoons of cranberry sauce, and sieved it again. Result? A seriously delicious and richly- flavoured gravy, with a deep chicken flavour and strong notes of star anise.
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If I’m being fussy, it was a little too rich — I prefer something a little lighter — but it had a delicious taste. Was it worth it? Not for my sieve, which has yet to return to its former glory. Yes for my arms — my triceps ached the next day. It was certainly a lot of work, but it did produce a really delicious gravy. VERDICT: 4/5. Phil Vickery’s Proper, Easy Gravy. After the energy- sapping exercise that was making Jamie Oliver’s gravy, the last thing I felt like was trying another recipe. But after talking to Phil Vickery, his contagious enthusiasm for his .
First I chopped the veg into large chunks and put them in the bottom of a baking tray, before putting the turkey on top and pouring in the wine, water and crumbled stock cubes. Phil Vickery's 'foolproof gravy' requires no special ingredients: just a turkey plus two carrots, two onions, six celery sticks, a leek, two bay leaves, two chicken stock cubes, a pint of white wine, two pints of cold water, and two tablespoons of cornflour. I had to cover the tray with two layers of foil, making sure it was sealed. My foil was too narrow, so I ended up wrapping the whole thing round and round, as if I were swaddling a baby. Quite a feat, given how heavy the tray was with the turkey, veg and three pints of liquid. I then put it on the hob and boiled it for five minutes, listening with my ear to the foil to check it was bubbling, before putting into the oven (preheated to 2. Once it was cooked, I removed the turkey to a serving plate and wrapped it in foil again — I never wrapped my babies this carefully!
I brought the juices to the boil but thought it needed a little more liquid. Phil said to add more water if you want to, but there was some wine left in the bottle so I sloshed some more of that in instead.
Meanwhile I’d mixed the cornflour with water to make a paste, before adding it to the gravy, little by little, using my balloon whisk to avoid the dreaded lumps. Phil’s advice is not to go mad with the cornflour as ? A really delicious, proper turkey gravy: mid- brown colour, with no lumps (I was proudest of that), and tasting of the gravy my mother and mother- in- law both seem to make with no trouble every year. It was an absolute triumph..